I traveled to Makkah to perform Umrah. No, it wasn’t my first time. But it was the first time it felt like a homecoming. After more than twenty-five years, I returned carrying memories and questions. As someone who notices the quiet moments before the big ones, I wanted to share my journey with you. Not just the steps of Umrah but the feelings, surprises, and small blessings that greeted me along the way. This is for anyone preparing to go or dreaming of it, so that you know you’re not alone in the wonder of it all.
Among the pilgrims: A peace that words cannot hold
In the crowds, something deep within me settled. It was quiet, like breathing in fresh air after a storm. The Haram pulls hearts from every direction, and yet you feel instantly at ease. As if everyone here is family. All of us searching for peace. And all of us finding it in the same place.
I heard whispers of the Quran, voices of prayer, and languages I couldn’t place. Yet kindness was everywhere. Smiles exchanged. A stranger handing you a date. A child offering sweets. A hand on your shoulder in shared prayer. These gestures reminded me that you are not alone here.
Preparing the heart and the bag
Before the journey, I packed a small bag with the essentials:
- Unscented toiletries (soap, shampoo, deodorant)
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Light cotton clothes
- Scissors or razor for exiting Ihram
- Plastic cups and bags
- Painkillers, light food, moisturizer, allergy meds
Zamzam water would be available everywhere. Food, too, was easy to find. Tamees bread from a corner bakery. Al Baik is on every block.
I made my Ihram intention at the airport, just before the plane crossed the Miqat. The airline reminded us. Everything was set up so we could begin this sacred path in peace.
Arrival: Has Makkah Changed or Have I?
Makkah had grown. Taller buildings. Wider roads. But something essential was untouched. I rushed to the Haram like someone afraid the gates might close. At the entrance, I greeted the Kaaba with this prayer:
“O Allah, increase this House in honor, dignity, veneration, and reverence…”
Then I offered the private dua I had carried with me across the world.
Tawaf: Circling the center of the soul
Each round, I said:
“Subhan Allah, Alhamdulillah, La ilaha illa Allah, Allahu Akbar…”
As I touched the Yemeni Corner, I prayed:
“Our Lord, give us good in this world and good in the Hereafter, and protect us from the punishment of the Fire.”
Behind Maqam Ibrahim, I stood with tears in my eyes. I prayed for my parents. For the ones who guided me here. For the ones I wish could be here too. Only Zamzam could calm the wave of emotion that rose in me.
Zamzam: Healing in every sip
I drank with intention. For healing. For clarity. For nearness to Allah. The Prophet said:
“Zamzam is for whatever it is drunk for.”
And I believed it. Each sip restored something in me. It was more than hydration. It was mercy, poured directly into the heart.
Safa to Marwah: Walking in trust
From Safa, I recited:
“Indeed, Safa and Marwah are among the symbols of Allah…”
I climbed and faced the Qibla:
“There is no god but Allah…”
Seven circuits. Steps of longing. Steps of remembrance. My dua at the end felt like it rose beyond the ceiling of the mosque. I returned to my room exhausted, glowing with something I had no words for.
Getting around in Makkah
- Taxi from Jeddah: around 60 SAR
- Airport transfer: 150 to 200 SAR
- Inside Makkah: Free public buses, hotel shuttles, taxis around 10 to 15 SAR
Tip: Make wudu before leaving for the Haram. Bring light snacks. Arrive at least one hour before prayer. For Jumuah, come at least three hours early.
Where to stay in Makkah
There’s something for every budget. If you’re far from the Haram, make sure there’s a shuttle. Use Wego to check reviews, prices, and nearby amenities.
Hotels near the Haram:
Ibrahim Al Khalil Street:
Ajyad Area:
Al Aziziyah:
- Park Inn by Radisson
- Holiday Inn Al Aziziyah
Tip: Sometimes, hotels farther from the Haram offer more comfort and space.
What to eat during Umrah
Inside the Haram, dates and yogurt are shared freely. For full meals, the Clock Tower and Jabal Omar have everything from fast food to fine dining:
- Al Baik, Al Tazaj, Mishraq
- Mama Aziza’s (traditional breakfast)
- Al Shurfa (buffet with Haram view, 75 SAR)
- Shawarma, Pushak, Redan
Budget tip: Tamees and foul for under 5 SAR. Bring some instant meals for your first night.
Shopping in Makkah
- Al-Khalil markets: Perfumes, gifts, modest clothing
- Al-Otaibiyyah: Better prices, fewer crowds
Ask for the bus to Haj Street. You’ll pass by the resting place of Lady Khadijah. Offer peace and prayer as you go.
Tips for the Haram
- Keep wudu before going
- Bring a notebook for duas and reflections
- Wear comfortable shoes
- Carry a small bag with essentials
- Arrive early for prayer times
- Be generous with your smiles and patience
Farewell, but not goodbye
Seven days felt like one long sacred breath. As I stood near Maqam Ibrahim for the final time, tears returned. They weren’t of sadness, but of knowing something had changed in me.
I left with no souvenirs in my hand, but treasures in my heart. A steadier soul. A clearer prayer. A gentler spirit.
Will I return? Only Allah knows. But one thing I know for sure: part of me is still there, in the echo of the call to prayer, waiting.
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